Entertaining Creatures

Brooklyn was slammed with a blizzard almost (or was it actually?) a week ago (it’s all a blur, and slush and snow bank). As a result, the long bare azalea bush outside my kitchen window has been decorated with pom-poms. I know that the word pom-poms went out of fashion millennia ago when cheerleading joined the ranks of the un- cool, but this silly word describes perfectly what was hanging from delicate branches suspended over major snow.

So pom-poms? These days? Nope! Birds! Tiny, puffed-up-against-the-chill birds. I’ve been laboring over what to write about next and admit to being not a little derailed by the season and snow. Exhausted not only by the elements but also by all the entertaining as well (the stew with the burdock was a hit), I’m ready to chill (metaphorically speaking). But how can you resist unexpected guests that look plenty hungry? I don’t usually feed birds. Complications generally ensue. Apart from uneaten seeds creating unwelcome and unidentifiable flora in the spring, I would hate to think that I had influenced anyone with feathers against the trip to Florida. Florida sounds pretty good about now. But these creatures made the decision to hang around ages ago and everyone is allowed a rash decision once in a while.

How to set the table for a bird: If you can’t find the bird feeder (I suspect mine is under the snow), pull out a sheet pan and add seed. Done! Birds are delightful guests that rarely complain and always show their appreciation by providing entertainment and, in this case, by cleaning their ‘plate’. I doubt very much that any remnants will be left come spring. What’s more? They entertain too! Apart from the Pom-Poms, there’s been a Cardinal, Morning Dove and a family of Starlings. Such gracious hosts and all I have to do is watch!

Happy New Year everyone. I hope your year is filled with plenty of easy meals and many entertaining moments.

Peanuts and Raisins

Sigh, the (almost) last card got in the mail today (let’s call it a New Year’s card), most of the presents are wrapped, work stuff is pretty much wrapped-up as well, the tree is up, cards are scattered throughout the house and I even managed to go grocery shopping. Why the ‘laundry list’? And what does this have to do with peanuts and raisins? I’m entertaining tonight…. as in having a few friends over (at this moment in time my ability to BE entertaining is up for serious debate). I’m out of steam. While jostling my way through the isles of the Coop this afternoon I passed these Spanish peanuts and what my mother used to call ‘Sultanas’. This was her default dish, and it always works. After the crush of the last few weeks, I need some no-brainer party food.

What you will need:

• A bowl
• Peanuts
• Raisins
• Friends

Method:

• Put stuff in bowl and serve.

Now how refreshing was that?! The party has started! Please tell me that life does not need to be elaborate. Why use exhaustion as an avoidance mechanism? Friends will bring stuff (if properly trained- and/ or raised right) and it’s time to relax.

I have some carrots, Persian Cucumbers, celery, cherry tomatoes and bell peppers ready to keep company with bean dip (which seems doable now that I’ve got the peanut thing under control), and if my energy holds up I may even make a frittata or some little toasts with something on top (rub toasted slices with the cut side of a garlic clove and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle a little kosher salt). Oh! Then there’s always the cheese sticks…

Are you beginning to see how this works? Once chilled, getting ready isn’t such a chore. Pretty soon the neighbors will be here doing what friends do… eating a bit, drinking a bit and being very happy to wish each other all good wishes for the season.

All good wishes to you too! Now where did I put that Christmas CD of Ella and Louis?

Burdock Root, My First Time

Well, why not? You only live once! As I once confessed to all of you, my two vices are shoes and cookbooks. These days, I’m favoring the later. Cheaper, and always a comfort, the latest impulse buy (the Coop knows what’s it’s doing… cookbooks are right where everyone waits in line) was The Flexitarian Table, by Peter Berley. Perfect! Entertaining these days is a challenge on many fronts. One friend can’t tolerate dairy, another doesn’t eat meat or poultry and my pocketbook prefers more vegetables than anything. Flexitarian sounds like ‘one size fits all’.

Peter Berely’s definition:

Flex·i·tar·i·an (n) 1. A person who is mainly a vegetarian but who occasionally eats fish or meat. 2. Someone who is not a vegetarian but enjoys meatless meals.

So, where were we? Burdock! (almost forgot) This root is destined for an ‘Autumn Stew’ and will keep company with some winter squash, mushrooms, ginger, carrots and celery. AND, because I always do as I am told (as in on page 256), I looked for a root that was firm and no more than 1 inch at the thickest part. I’m going to scrub the dickens (not a direct quote) out of this root (which, by the way, is full of antioxidants) with a stiff brush in a basin of cold water. Apparently our burdock root is a member of the daisy family, which is something to think about when it’s freezing outside and definitely not sandal weather!

Pumpkin Pie and The Importance of Being Earnest

Couldn’t help but consider this title as I struggled with my Pâte Briseé (aka pie crust). I knew from all the warnings (must have pea sized lumps…. don’t over work it…) that the first attempt was not stellar. So… another recipe, this time not my sister’s (that left out salient information such as how much salt or sugar), but Julia’s. As usual, her concise instructions and the accompanying photo illustrations in The Way To Cook, got me through the second batch of pie shells. These were keepers.

Ok, pie shells sorted it was on to a recipe for my Long-Island-Cheese-Pumpkin-Aren’t-I-Special-Puree. This stuff was very very moist and I should have known better. Having decided to go with the flow and follow Julia’s recipe for a ‘fluffy soufflé’ filling (first mistake) and (to my dubious credit) cutting back on the milk, even I smelled danger and baked it longer than required….ICK! Total flop. Here I was, photo of modest pies ready on the digital card, prepared to write a clever blog about how the dough was acceptable but the filling totally fine. Conceit knowing no bounds, I even imagined how my earnest attempt at doing everything from scratch wouldn’t be perfect, but would reap the rewards of real effort. WRONG! Arg! Ouch! Another pang of regret that Cathy (my pastry chef sibling) wasn’t here to watch my (stooped in front of the oven) back.

So, the ‘earnest’ part of Thanksgiving? Turns out it wasn’t all about me and my earnest pie. As a perfect illustration of the obvious, it was about gathering with neighbors and friends, all of us enjoying everything no matter what. My hosts were discretion itself and I hope that they have disposed of any leftover pie without qualms. Next time I’ll practice before traveling next door via the Road of Good Intentions!

I hope that all of you survived Thanksgiving unscathed, with culinary egos intact!

Cranberry Sauce as Avoidance Mechanism

Thanksgiving is almost here and if you are still left with the ‘good guest’ question of ‘what shall I bring’, here’s the easiest thing yet. Now don’t be daunted if your host demurs, it may take 15 years or so (I’ll tell you about that another time), but you will eventually win the battle over the canned variety of Cranberry (faux) Sauce. I know that there are some amongst us who have a sentimental attachment to opening two sides of a can and listening to the sucking noise that accompanies jelly emergence. Hang in there, eventually the canned stuff will lose its celebrity and your homemade effort will be appreciated for its inherent cranberry-ness. So here we go. As in all things, there are always variations on a theme, but this is easy, basic and always a hit. In the time it took for me to take the ingredients photo, the sauce was done. Voila! Here’s how:

Ingredients you will need:

• A bag of cranberries (usually 12 oz.)
• 1 cup of sugar
• 1 cup of orange juice (or a combination of water and oj)
• 2 teaspoons of grated orange rind (give or take)

Equipment:

• Colander
• Measuring cups (wet and dry, or not-this not a precise recipe)
• Your best saucepan (heavy is good)
• Something to grate with and some wax paper
• Something to get the juice out of your oranges
• A spoon
• And lastly, an apron. Cranberries stain!

Method:

• Wash your berries and while doing so, pick out and discard any nasty looking ones.
• Wash your oranges and using a grater (over wax paper or one of those flexible mats), grate off some rind from your oranges. Avoid the white pith under the skin, it’s bitter.
• Juice the oranges and measure. If you don’t have a full cup, add water to get a cup’s worth of liquid.
• Put your prepared ingredients and the cup of sugar into the saucepan (in other words put everything together).
• Stir and bring to a boil.
• When just at a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the berries pop (about 10 minutes).

Done! Once the berries have popped you can turn off the heat and let your sauce cool down. It will thicken as it cools. You just made sauce and maybe even a mini act of subversion for the holiday table. This sauce needs to be refrigerated but lasts a long time (that is if there is any left!).

Did I forget the “avoidance mechanism” part? Now that I’m warmed-up, it’s time to tackle that pastry dough! Have a wonderful Thanksgiving.

Say “Cheese” (pumpkin)

Thursday is almost here. Because I am going next door for Thanksgiving (I challenge anyone to beat that commute!), I have been absolved of the early morning panic to stuff and time a turkey. Instead, I am in charge of ‘something green’, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie.

In anticipation of my day as ‘slacker-cook’, I purchased a Long Island Cheese Pumpkin at the Farmer’s Market. How could I not after being told that this is the one all the chefs use for making anything pumpkin? Apparently the bright orange Jack-O-Lantern variety is more for carving than eating. This Cheese Pumpkin wasn’t as pretty as its day glow cousins, but I had recently learned (this is what happens when one is a WNYC addict) that the bumps on the outside are sugars trying to escape. I now have a new appreciation for ugly, warty winter squashes.

Anxious to get a head start (because I am stressed about the whole pastry thing), I have already turned this ‘beautiful on the inside’ Cheese pumpkin into puree. Puree is basically something that is subjected to the food processor (or anything else to achieve the same result) until it resembles baby food. With this pumpkin, I cut it into quarters, scraped out the seeds and stringy bits and baked it until it was soft enough to be easy work for the processor. There are now a few zip lock bags in the freezer waiting for their next incarnation.

In the meantime, the seeds were washed to rid themselves of as much of the pumpkin yuck as possible and then left to languish on a baking sheet for a day (well, actually two days). As a quick appetizer, they were tossed with a little olive oil, salt and pepper, and baked on the sheet at 350 degrees for about 10 minutes. I knew they were done when popping action was heard in the oven. Very nice.

Acorn Squash: Part deux in three parts.

Now that you are on a first name basis with Acorn Squash (and keep in mind, our acorn squash stands in for winter squashes in general, I chose an acorn squash because my guess is that you have seen it before many times and were just too shy to introduce yourself), let’s get started with preparation.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. We are about to bake/steam. Make sure your rack is about two thirds up from the bottom and find your oven mitts and a baking dish that will hold both halves of your squash.

Wash your squash!!! Don’t be afraid to go after it with a brush and give it a good scrub. This is your moment to take charge.

Cut in half from just below the stem to pointy end (don’t attempt to cut the stem, your knife will never forgive you). This is actually the most difficult part of the whole operation. Almost by definition, out winter squash pals are thick skinned and will put up a good fight. Be prepared with a cleaver and mallet or pop it in the oven (375 degrees) until soft and more yielding. OR… and I just recently tried this, pop it in the microwave for about a minute on high (just to be safe, use a sharp fork and score a few holes along the line where you plan on cutting). Not soft enough? Try another 30 seconds… keep doing this bit by bit (we are trying to avoid a microwave explosion). Either oven method will make cutting the squash easier (or even possible… this really is the most challenging part of the whole squash experience).

Do you have two halves? Great! Now scrap out the seeds and stringy bits.

Rub the cut surface with some oil (any neutral flavored oil will do the trick), and place cut side down in a baking dish.

Add about 1/2 inch of water and using your mitts, carefully place in the oven. Bake until soft. This should take about 30 minutes. The water will have evaporated and the bottom will have begun to color.

That’s it. Done! You did it! (don't forget your mitts and place the very hot dish on something that can take it) Now all you have to do it add a little butter, salt and pepper…. Or…. A bit of maple syrup, honey or brown sugar… and perhaps a dash of cinnamon or nutmeg. Anything goes.

Here’s a link to a web site that may not have the charm of this entry ;) but has a boatload of squash information.

Summer VS Winter (squash)

Don’t get me started. I, for one, am not thrilled about the prospect of winter (and anyone could feel it today… burr). I can get excited about slowly cooked meals such as soups and stews, roasted vegetables, pizza… (OK, OK, so winter is not all bad)...and amongst these slow cookers are Winter Squash.

This picture has a winter squash and a summer squash (well, two of the later). According to Harold McGee (remember? he’s my favorite food geek), the Naragansett Indians used the word “squash” to mean “ a green thing eaten raw”. I guess our native forebears liked summer squash best. Zucchini can be eaten raw. If you’d rather have it cooked, it doesn’t take long (less heat in the kitchen) and, apart from the stem end, it’s all edible. Summer squashes are best when picked young and compared to their tough skinned cousins, can only be kept for a short time.

Our model for the winter variety is an Acorn Squash. Winter squash, with its tough dry skin, can be stored much longer than its summery counterpart. Although Winter squashes are generally available year ‘round, they are best now, at the end of fall. These hardy members of the curcubit family can be stored for months (in cool and dry conditions).

Keep your hat on for the next entry (it’s getting chilly after all) and simplest dish ever… baked acorn squash. Start to consider if you want it sweet or savory and find your mittens (the oven variety).

Anatomy of a Ploughman’s or, Meet the Bishop

Just checked in with the blog. What I thought was a month’s break has almost become two months! As a friend pointed out tonight, I left off with basil and here we are skirting winter and in full throttle fall.

No excuses beyond real life encroaching and a trip to the UK. Wales? Again? Yes… and because this is the place (as in food blog) to talk about food, I want to tell you what makes me feel the most transported when visiting England. A Ploughman’s.

Our last day in Wales, we took a day trip to Ross-on-Wye and lunched at the King’s Head Hotel. This was my last chance for the quintessential pub meal (which, if you haven’t caught on is what we are talking about).

As in anything, attention and earnestness can present the same breadth of variety as snowflakes. No two Ploughman’s are alike. Ingredients may resemble each other on the menu, but quality and the use of local ingredients can make all the difference.

If you are fortunate enough to find yourself in an English pub (as in this picture), here’s my advice. Order a glass of the local lager and a Ploughman’s. If you are in a place that is graced with enough culinary consciousness to make this basic staple into something sublime, a large rasher of very fresh bread will be accompanied by some local cheeses (in this case some Stinking Bishop and two other cheeses that were equally delicious but not so memorably named), some chutney and a pickled onion or two (this one was thoughtfully cut into quarters so that I didn’t have to embarrass myself by trying to negotiate something so round and slippery with a knife and fork….. in England one NEVER uses one’s fingers), a polite portion of coleslaw and a bit of fresh salad. Civilization on a plate. Basic, satisfying and, if local ingredients are used, even surprising. The cheese was a revelation. I’ll never pass on the opportunity to encounter some Stinking Bishop again.

Basil and Heaven

Not quite sure where this summer went, but today it was cool enough to want the windows closed. Time to harvest the wealth of basil still outside and capture some summer souvenirs as consolation for when the weather is truly chilly. According to Wiki, the ancient Egyptians and Greeks believed that basil would open the gates of heaven for people passing on. Makes sense to me. Basil itself is heavenly.

If you don’t have a pot of this miracle in your garden or on your fire escape, you may still be able to pick up a nice fat bunch at the farmer’s market. It’s easy to preserve a bit of heaven (well, you can start with basil and philosophize later over sauce). Wash and dry (as in take a tea towel or salad spinner to get off any excess moisture) a large quantity of basil leaves and process them in a food processor with some extra virgin olive oil. Do this by packing the food processor with the prepared leaves and slowly (with the blade running) drizzle oil into the tube at the top. No need to measure, you want the consistency to be creamy, not too dry but soupy either. Done? Put your simple pesto into an ice cube tray and when it’s fully frozen, store the frozen basil cubes in a well-marked (date it!) bag in the freezer.

You now have passage to heaven! When the weather is truly cold, you can reclaim your basil (thaw it gently) and add it as is to soups or sauces. Or make Genoese Pesto Sauce! Follow the link until I can write again with a recipe tailored for first time pesto makers.


PS - You may have noticed (at least I hope you have) that my entries have been a little sparse lately. I haven’t given up on the blog, but will be making entries a little less frequently for a while. It’s almost a year since I embarked on Kitchen Primer, and I’m way way past 100 entries. I love doing this, but there are many things vying for attention (not the least being Sylvia, the prodigal daughter… Maybe I can get her interested in some pesto making!).

It’s a Tomato! It’s a Cherry! It’s a Cape Gooseberry!

Also known as a Ground Cherry, this super little fruit (that’s a relative of a tomatillo) references Superman in more ways than one. Apart from having a ‘Cape’ attached to it, this cherry sized fruit contains a chemical, Cryptoxanthin. But fear not! This is not Kryptonite! Cryptoxanthin converts to vitamin A, which equates with its having anti-oxidant properties. I’m sure that Superman would have enjoyed these as a snack. He would have been able to swoop down in either North or South America where these are native. When you fly around and have superpowers, this is the bonus you get for having to fight bad guys most of the time. Maybe he picked some for Lois to use in a salad or enough for her to make preserves or a pie (who knows? maybe Superman likes to cook too!).

You and I don’t need a cape or superpowers to try these. All that’s required is a willingness to try something new and a trip to the farmer’s market. Just peel back the husk and eat the berry inside. You’ll be able to report back to your friends on this planet that it’s slightly tart, slightly sweet and very mild mannered.

Uhibbu Lemon Cucumbers!

Saturday’s farmer’s market at Grand Army Plaza was packed! Pip, Pookie (Pip’s pal has been staying with us) and I ran into canine and foodie pals alike. This is one of the few venues where we can all shop together. Sterling’s people, Cat and Dave, insisted that I take home some ‘lemon cucumbers’. Who could refuse that sort of directive? We had already joined Habibi (Arabic for “Beloved”) and his person, Glenn. Glenn is a very well traveled man, who, of all the off-leash crowd (wonder what the dogs call us?) could probably explain BCE (we are about to get to that) and a few other things as well. But, for all Glenn’s erudition, lemon cucumbers were a mystery for him as well. We had a mission! One farm stand later, culinary adventures bagged, dogs and off-leash acquaintances headed back to our respective kitchens and, as it turns out, research sources. Glenn and I had the twin impulse to get home and consult greater food minds.

How do I know this? Here’s the link that Glenn sent about Lemon Cucumbers.

My favorite source, McGee, writes that cucumbers were domesticated in India around 1500 BCE which is an awfully long time ago (what’s BCE? Here’s a reference from Wiki and one from About.com). A cucumber is in the squash /cucurbit family, keeping company with, well, squashes and watermelons! Apparently, watermelons and cucumbers are related, a good illustration of pointing out the obvious…. as in, duh… of course! It never really occurred to me before, but makes complete sense now. What isn’t obvious are these cucumbers.

Make sure to wash off any little prickles left on the outside and eat whole like an apple. Alternately, if you are feeling fancy or want to share, slice them and pull out some fancy imported salt to use sparingly as a seasoning. That’s it! They taste nothing like a lemon, so it’s not about looks! It is about a refreshing, mild cucumber that is easy to eat by itself or use (skin and all) as an easy addition to a seasonal summer salad. Ah… uhibbu lemon cucumbers! (Glenn tells me that this is the companion verb to Habibi. ”Uhibbu” is the Arabic verb for ‘I love’. Apparently Glenn’s dog is a pure-bred noun.)

Monster Revealed

I love it when things happen the way they’re supposed to. This happened yesterday. Just as promised (and as in any good scary story) our monster shed his ‘scales’ only to expose an inner sweet self. The fruit looks like corn-on-the-cob. The ‘kernels’, exposed after the scales peel away, start to protrude and you can either pick them from the ‘cob’ or use a fork to tease them into a bowl. In this case, two bowls.

Sylvia’s review? “Tastes like gummy candy.” My take? A beautiful blend of pineapple and banana flavors. Not scary at all, just thoroughly tropical and monstrously delicious.

Waiting for the Monster (fruit)

Here’s another addition to the annals of weird fruit. Well, weird to us. My guess is that this tropical fruit might be standard fare if you lived near it's rainforest origins in Mexico or Panama. This particular fruit (the one in the photograph) was purchased at the Food Coop earlier today and was grown in Florida. That's not exactly meeting locavore requirements, but it didn't need a passport either. I hope you’ll forgive me! I can only explain my desire for the exotic by saying that small adventures are substituting for bigger ones these days.

But back to our Monster… this morning I passed over one of its companions because the skin wasn’t looking as smooth and unblemished as this one (using the usual principles for fruit buying). Well, it turns out that the less attractive bin mate was closer to being ripe. This is a work in progress. Just as in an earlier entry about Ugli Fruit, we are going to have to revisit this edible adventure when it’s ripe. In the mean time, the instructions wrapped around our monster (Creature from the Black Lagoon comes to mind, which was, by the way, one of the first movies to be released in 3D), tells me to keep it upright, stemside up in a glass, until the scales drop off by themselves. We are in this together! I’ll report back when Monstera Deliciocia transforms into a tasty tropical delicacy.

Planets, Peaches, Donuts and Emperors

Unlike the core of Saturn that is filled with iron, nickel, silicon and oxygen compounds, Saturn Peaches are filled with fruit that has delicate almond undertones (the almond is a relative of the peach) and is sweeter than the usual variety. What are the other advantages (apart from not requiring space travel)? They are not as fuzzy as a regular peach and the stone (pit) doesn’t cling to the inside flesh the same way it does in an ordinary peach. Less mess at the core. They are a hardier shape, easier to hold and easier to squeeze into your lunchbox!

Saturn peaches were introduced to the Western World from China in 1869. A Saturn peach in China during the 1800’s, could only be planted in the royal grounds of The Emperor. There was a lot of unrest in China at this time. It’s nice to think that once in a while there was a break for these lovely peaches… a donut break! Which is the other name that you will find applied to these lovely fruits.

Mother Earth News has an article called Top 10 Reasons to Try a Donut Peach. They also have an article, ‘Saturn’ Peaches, that has a little more about how this Chinese fruit tree was adapted to be more cold hardy. All of which explains why this peach, with out-of-this-world sweetness, is now readily available to Emperors and mere commoners here on earth.

Adventure! Mystery! Dragon Fruit!

Who could resist? Sylvia had an appointment close to China Town and after we had taken care of business, it was either go home or seek adventure. We had no way of knowing that our decision would lead us to this unearthly discovery. OK, OK…. we were in search of something new, and this being New York, you can pretty much bet that if you want an adventure, all you need to do is put one foot in front of the other and go!

These were on fruit stands everywhere. By the time we had explored the Chinese market underneath the Manhattan Bridge, enjoyed soup dumplings at Joe’s Shanghai Restaurant (our server was very happy to demonstrate the proper eating method… that is after we survived the agony of watching our table mates consume massive quantities before our order arrived), and discovered a beautiful shop dedicated to chopsticks (I have already placed my Christmas request), we were on a roll. So far everything had been delightful the thrill of adventure made passing over these rare looking fruits impossible.

Actually, after a bit of research, it turns out that Dragon Fruit is not all that rare. You probably won’t find it at your local supermarket, and because it’s tropical you certainly won’t find it at the Farmer’s Market (I do feel a bit sheepish about buying a ‘passport required’ food, but we were in discovery mode!). It turns out that South America, Asia, Australia and Hawaii all produce pitaya. The fruit of a cactus plant, this pink and green one is called Sweet Pitaya. According to a Dragon Fruit web site, these beautiful fruits require bats to successfully pollinate. The flowers necessary for pollination bloom at night, and bats are the night shift! This is possibly the first time the thought of bees needing to sleep has even occurred to me.

Our impulse purchase was similar to Kiwi and mild. I enjoyed my half, Sylvia wasn’t so keen, but did not find it objectionable either. Her half is in the fridge cooling down… we are going to see if it’s more appealing chilled. The reward for being adventurous is eating a fruit that is full of fiber, antioxidants and vitamins. Low in calories too!

End of the day assessment? All in all a successful adventure and another food mystery solved!

Not Quite Nicoise

It’s still very hot in Brooklyn (who says there’s no such thing as Global Warming?). This means that we are still in our ‘Salad Days’. Salad in summer is the counterpart to soup in winter. You can make something special to recipe, or simply scour the supplies on hand to invent something yourself.

A Nicoise salad is a famous main course ‘composed’ salad that has potatoes, beans, eggs, tomatoes, tuna, anchovies, capers and its namesake, Nicoise olives. All this wonderful stuff rests on lettuce lightly dressed with a lemony dressing. Sounds great, doesn’t it? (OK, you can skip the anchovies, but you are really missing something… that goes for the capers too)

That said, rather than get all worked up about making an authentic recipe, I’d like to encourage you to make a Not Quite Nicoise. Get out your biggest bowl and start with the main structure, lettuce and some sort of dressing (here’s the Dijon dressing that we learned about). Now gather anything you like (within reason, let’s not get too silly). Most pantries have a can of tuna (drain it before using), an onion (purple? peeled and sliced very thin?), a sliced hard-boiled egg, maybe some beans and potatoes. Blanch the beans the way we cooked the Edamame. A simple guide to cooking potatoes follows. Get ready to assemble the ingredients and guess what? You’ve almost got a meal! All you need to do now is text a few friends and have them to stop by the bakery to get a nice loaf of bread. Wait until they arrive, dress the lettuce just before serving and compose (yourself)!

Boiled Potatoes
(I recommend small red or yellow ones with thin skins. Try to buy spuds of a similar size)

• Wash your potatoes and cut out any ‘eyes’ (small sprouts)
• You can cook them whole or cut them in quarters or similar sized pieces
• Place potatoes in a deep pot with cold water to cover and a large pinch of salt
• Bring to a boil (large rolling bubbles)
• Cook until tender. A skewer or sharp knife will go in easily when they are done. Try not to cook them into mush.
• Drain and let cool. This can be done way in advance and can be refrigerated in a tightly covered container for up to 3 days.

Footnote: I didn’t mention peeling, because I like the skins. It’s your choice!

Whisk-y Business

FYI, this is a whisk (well, two of them and a bowl. The later of which is usually employed at the same time).

If this blog is truly dedicated to the basics, then this is something you should know about. On top of the list of essential kitchen tools, the whisk keeps company with a good knife and a spoon. Craig Claiborne, (who is famous for educating Americans in all things kitchen) touts a medium wire whisk second only to a cast iron pan when he writes of “The Most Basic Equipment for a Small BASIC Kitchen”.

New Kitchen Primer was inspired by Craig Claiborne’s Kitchen Primer, which is a small volume that was originally published in 1996 by Portland House. I got my copy used via EBay, and it’s really brand new (didn’t cost much either). If you can get your hands on this compact volume, I highly recommend it. Trends in cooking change as much as hemlines (or if that analogy doesn’t work for you ….as much as cell phone technology), so his recipes may seem a little heavy in the cream and butter department. That said, the list of kitchen essentials and the advice on use of equipment is great. Nice little illustrations too.

But back to whisks. I’ll risk being a bore and remind you, once again, to buy the best you can afford at a proper kitchen supply. A cheap whisk doesn’t work very well and will not last. A quality whisk will last forever and will always be a pleasure to use. Just think about how amazing you will feel as you use your beautiful new kitchen tool to ‘whisk up’ a lovely salad dressing or some eggs or even some whipped cream… and that’s just the beginning.

Also FYI, when you are ‘whisking something up’, do yourself a favor and use a much larger bowl or vessel than you think you need. This will equate to more freedom of movement (sometimes you really want to get some momentum going) and most certainly less mess.

You're ready for wisk-y business!

Living with Zest

It is possible to live without zest. Why one would want to is another matter entirely. Unlike the profound variety, as in joie de vivre (joy of life) zest, citrus zest is not dependent on mood. It’s simply dependent on a handy little tool aptly named a ‘zester’. Scrape its row of tiny blades along the rind of an orange, lime or lemon and voila! You have zest! This is so easy that it might even make you feel zesty in a more life altering way.

Bakers often use zest in cakes or other delights (maybe there is a direct relation after all), but for a beginning zest maker, here’s a recipe from Food and Wine that uses lemon zest in a salad dressing. (For all you non-cook cooks, this simple dressing might liven up your salad repertoire.)

Tools

• Measuring spoons
• A zester (review kitchen-purchasing advice and go to a real cook shop. This will be your zester for life)
• A sharp knife or something else that chops
• A whisk (if you don’t have one… same advise goes. Buy the best you can afford.)
• A small bowl

Ingredients

• 1 Tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons of lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon of finely chopped lemon zest
• 1 Tablespoon of honey
• 1/2 teaspoon of chopped Thyme

• 1/4 cup of extra-virgin olive oil
• Your best salt and some freshly ground pepper to taste

Method

• In a small bowl, whisk together the juice, zest, thyme and honey.
• Whisk in olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Find some salad greens and you are living with zest!!!

PS There are plenty of links in this one for review. This is the 141st blog entry...Can you believe it?!

Radishes and Celebrity

The Greeks described the radish by naming it Raphanus, which means “quickly appearing”(they grow really fast). The common name, “Radish” is derived from a Latin word that means ‘root’. These lovely crunchy root vegetables have been around for a long time.

The Greeks and Romans weren’t the only civilizations keen on the radish. They turn up (actually they are relatives of the turnip… pun intended!) all over Asia and Europe. There are all sorts of radishes and varieties for every season. You’ll find the little red ones now, at the Farmer’s Market, and if you happen to be in Mexico in winter, they make a grand appearance then too. On December 23 in Oaxaca, large red radishes are turned into sculptures for the ‘Night of the Radishes’ festival.

Who could have guessed at such celebrity?

If you are just a common, garden variety radish eater, look for smooth skinned, firm radishes that still have their tops (which are also edible) attached. Radishes like those in today’s photo are best when they’re small. Wash and eat them raw and if you want to celebrate just a little, dress them up with a simple dip.

Gowanus Botanical Garden Report: A Tomato!!

Well, this is it, possibly the world’s smallest tomato farm. What you see is the season’s entire tomato production. Honestly? I’m surprised that we got this far. Historically the squirrels get first pick and one determined garden beast would have annihilated the entire crop. Maybe next year I will hazard a larger, more productive plant!

Did I mention that tomatoes are actually a fruit? We like to think of them as vegetables because of their low sugar content and their high amount of glutamic acid and sulfur aromas, chacteristics that are more common in savory foods (pardon the food geek moment).

So apart from taste, what’s so great about a tomato? It’s very rich in vitamin C and delivers a big dose of the antioxidant carotenoid lycopene, which is thought to fight cancers.

I’ve written about tomatoes before, so if you are feeling like a review, here are the links:

Hercules and Hydroponics
Quick! Before it’s Winter!

What follows is a non-cook cooking recipe and my favorite summer salad. It’s called Caprese and is always wonderful.

Caprese Salad

• Alternate slices of fresh tomato and fresh mozzarella on a plate
• Drizzle (control yourself!) with Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar (or skip the vinegar)
• Season with freshly ground pepper, a dash of your best salt and fresh Basil Leaves

Bon Appitto!

The Noble Carrot

Why noble? Well, in spite of the fact that they are always around and rarely made to feel special, you never hear a carrot complain. Such is the lot of one who is always on the scene, there when you need them, and easy to keep in the recesses of your refrigerator.

One of the main players in any culinary life, carrots are good for cooking and equally good for eating as-is. They can be a regular addition to your non-cook cooking repertoire.

Wash (a little scrub with a brush may help) or peel, and you have something to eat… very basic and very good. Add a little peanut butter and your carrot is almost a meal. We can postpone the many ways to cook carrots until the weather cools down (it’s very hot here in Brooklyn). In the mean time, you can either prepare them as you need them or prepare them a few at a time so that, like a loyal and devoted pal, you have someone waiting for you unconditionally. Store pre-prepared carrots in the fridge in some sort of closed container.

Carrot shopping? Look for firm brightly colored carrots that are not sprouting. Raw carrots are an excellent source of vitamin A, potassium and fiber. They may not make your hair curly (didn’t your mother always tell you that?), but they are good for your eyesight (she wasn’t kidding with that one).


Just as a footnote, the bags of ‘baby carrots’ that are always at the supermarket, are actually big carrots really really whittled down. The sometimes-white looking surface just means that they are a tiny bit dried out… but still edible, so don’t make this an excuse not to ‘eat your carrots’!

Raspberries and Entanglement

So get this! Raspberries inspired Velcro! Now there’s a ‘learn something new everyday’ moment! I wanted to encourage you to eat more berries and felt that I might get boring and end up doing a repeat of the last entry. You know, the one that heralded the virtues of blueberries.

Actually, raspberries are way more fragile than blueberries. Again, look for firm (and in this case glossy) fruit that is loosely packed (to discourage mold, which you should be on the look-out for) and eat ASAP!!!! (That’s As Soon As Possible) These guys are very tender. Cathy (the pastry chef sister) tells me that if you eat them little cell by little cell, you will experience small bursts of flavor on your happy tongue.

Cherie contradicts me by saying that thistles, not raspberries, inspired Velcro!

Controversy is always energizing. Harold McGee writes that Caneberries (the berry family that Raspberries belong to) are composite fruits, meaning that they consist of many many small entities that are held together by an ‘entanglement’ (now there’s a word that you might have fun with) of hairs…. hence the Velcro inspiration.

But you know what? Thistles or Raspberries being the source of inspiration or not, these amazinging beautiful and flavorful berries are worth eating. They are good for you (one of the biggest deliverers of anti-oxidants) and a delight to eat. AND they are currently in season. We had them last night with vanilla ice cream. Dessert couldn’t have been simpler or better!

Blueberries

I’m skipping a clever title for this straightforward food. No cooking necessary. Store in the refrigerator. Lightly wash just before eating. Look for firm, unwrinkled berries with no sign of mold (if you are buying them in clear box look at the underside). Eat them straight up, on cereal or throw some in a fruit salad or pancake batter.

Don’t even pay attention to the fact that you are consuming a terrific source of vitamin C and potassium. Fiber too. (Bonus points for those who care)

Brooklyn is currently experiencing a heat wave. This is the best possible time to non-cook. I think I’ll start with a handful of berries. The models for this picture are already history!

If you want to know more, here's the Wiki link to Blueberries

Don’t Cook!

Get food. Eat it! If that’s the sort of cook (or non-cook) you are, this is your season. Find a farmer’s market or grocery store that has rapid turnover and carries fresh produce. Some fruit, cheese, tomatoes, salad greens, a good loaf of whole grain bread and you are good to go. Willing to boil or scramble an egg? The world is an even bigger place!

Seriously, there is plenty to eat that doesn’t require any more preparation than a shower (for the food…I’m assuming that you don’t need this prompt) and a bit of familiarity. Feeling adventurous? Maybe you don’t even need to be on a first name basis. If that sounds a little scary, some time browsing the cookbook section of your favorite bookstore might even convince you to purchase a guide to help get started. Don’t feel like doing that? Try the Internet!

This is the season for fruit, greens and all sorts of edible stuff that can be enjoyed without cooking. If you are at the farmer’s market, ask the farmer how to choose. Basic principles generally apply. Look for fruit or veg that’s not blemished or funky looking. Soft can be good, but not so soft that you can’t get what ever you are purchasing home in one piece.

Imagine yourself living in Paris or some other fantasy of a place where local markets abound. Buy just what you can eat in a day or two (or three). Buying fresh food as often as you can will insure that it’s fresh and flavorful. If you are lucky enough to have a farmer’s market in your life, spend a little extra time and money and reap the rewards. Supporting local food production means that your food hasn’t used a passport to get to your plate. Locally sourced food can stay in the ground or on the tree longer and this is where the flavor part comes in.

A small gesture of faith (in your abilities and self-sufficiency), and the rewards are soon to follow. Your wallet will be fatter, it’s possible that your waistline will be smaller (no processed food at the farmer’s market) and you most certainly will feel the better for all of it!

Swiss, not French! Swiss Chard

Swiss Chard may not have anything to do with Switzerland. In a moment worthy of French Philosopher Foucault, it’s more about what it isn’t. It isn’t a French 19th Century spinach seed variety and needed to be named something other than 'French'! So? Swiss Chard it is! (To be honest? It’s pretty close to spinach. Those 19th Century French were, perhaps, a little sensitive regarding these matters.)

Tres (that’s French) full of nutrients, eating this not-to-be-confused-with-French-Spinach leafy vegetable will reward you with vitamins C, A and B6, potassium and magnesium, iron and even calcium.

Young chard can be used is salads and needs to be used quickly! The more mature chard (later in the season) needs to be cooked and will loose it’s bitterness in the process.

Chard can be steamed (check ‘Steamed’ entry), braised (I need to do an entry for you about that) or sautéed (ditto re braised).

To get you started, here’s a link from Epicurious.

Subversive Kale Chips

This is one of those ‘who knew’ recipes. These chips are good! I like to think of them as subversive junk food. The best part? They are very simple to make.

• Preheat your oven to 250 degrees

Find:

• Two large baking sheets
• A tea towel or paper towels
  
• A large bowl (for tossing the kale leaves in)
• An oven mitt (or two)
• A timer

Prepare:

• Wash and dry (this is where you use the tea towel) about 12 kale leaves (curly or Tuscan)
• Cut out the tough stem that runs down the center of each leaf
• Place the leaves in a large bowl and drizzle a generous tablespoon of olive oil
  
• Toss
• As you place the leaves in a single layer on the baking sheets, use your fingers or a brush to more evenly distribute the oil on the leaves.
• Sprinkle with salt and pepper (my friend, Cherie, suggested chopped garlic as well. Sounds good to me!)
• Set your timer and bake for about 30 to 40 minutes. You’ll know when they are done. The leaves will be stiff and crispy on the baking sheet. The oven is not super hot, so you can carefully check-up on your chips (use your mitt if you want to move the pan).

Done! These were a big hit yesterday with two sets of friends and Pip! Who knew?

Wild Thing: Kale

Apparently, Kale is wild cabbage (and tastes nothing like cabbage so don't get all weird on me OK?) and related to collards, brussel sprouts and cauliflower (like I said, don’t get weird… you’ll come to love that stuff too). That said, it's been domesticated for around 2,500 years and what originally started in the Mediterranean has been adapted to weather colder climates as well, which sounds pretty civilized to me.

Kale comes in many colors and varieties, and is one of many vegetables whose name comes from the Latin word, caulis, which means "stem" or "stalk" (which is usually removed before cooking). This one is curly leafed, but another of my favorites is lacinato or Tuscan Kale, which has broad flat leaves.

Either way, kale is strong stuff and is only on occasion eaten raw. Among the most intense of leafy greens, it's wonderful in soups and stews, stir-fries or braised with plenty of garlic.

Health benefits, you ask? (Well, maybe you didn't, but again, this stuff is good to know) For being brave and eating your leafy greens, you are rewarded with plenty of fiber, vitamins C and A, antioxidants and even calcium.

Buy firm dark unblemished leaves that show no sign of wilt or yellow. Small leaves will be more tender and will cook faster than the larger leaves, but either is fine. As always, it’s best to use as soon as possible. Store in the refrigerator loosely wrapped in plastic.

Stay tuned; the next blog has a recipe for Kale Chips. How wild is that?

Recipe for a Fly Trap

Who says you can catch more flies with honey? That may be true, but when it comes to the kitchen, you can catch more flies with vinegar. Let’s skip the flies and honey metaphor for now and attend to the practical.

This is what you really need to know. If, for some reason, you didn’t get to that peach before the more primitive (always up for debate) life forms found it, or you happened to be less than stellar regarding taking the garbage out in a timely fashion, and you find yourself in the company of teeny tiny flies (aka Fruit Flies), put about one inch of apple cider vinegar or balsamic vinegar in a jar or tall glass and add a squeeze or two of dish soap. Stir, don’t shake. You will soon start your very own dead fruit fly collection.

Before the infestation is too much for this simple remedy, take the garbage out and do a kitchen search for the origin of your pests. Then spring into action! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure…. A step in time saves nine… fruit flies are no fun.

The Gowanus Botanical Garden: Flora and Fauna Report

I’m busy! Busy is great, but doesn’t leave much time for blogging.

And I’m not the only one who’s busy. Adding to the predictable rumble of the F Train, and a very noisy air conditioner a few houses down, the other main racket makers are the sparrows. What a noise! The little ones have learned to fly, but still want room service. They sit in the branches of the lilac tree waiting for their mother to deliver breakfast or lunch or dinner…. birds eat a lot. My guess is that like any growing creature, they are pretty insatiable. This morning’s photo session in the garden frightened them away from the lilac and bird bath (which they really use), but I thought you’d enjoy a picture of the garden regardless.

Another thing that’s growing up in the garden, are our grapes! Remember the earlier entries? Eventually (if the Cardinals don’t get to them first), these will be red and very delicious. If the birds leave us any, I’ll photograph them again.

Flora or fauna, it’s fun to watch things grow up.

String Theory: Garlic Scapes

This picture of Garlic Scapes got me thinking of String Theory and maybe I’m not so far off. Information was thin enough to be zero dimensional.

The usual sources, McGee, Wiki, Larousse then the Visual Lover’s Guide, Bittman, Madison (you get the idea), were void of any in-depth information regarding these elegant strands.

Scapes are a very very seasonal occasion. Friday, after visiting a friend from upstate for another seasonal occasion (it was Andrea’s birthday), I returned with a monster bag of scapes. Now what? In the spirit of full disclosure, I had been in possession of a bag of these before. A foray for the photogenic at the farmer’s market (say that 10 times) had me returning to the studio with this strange acquaintance. The portrait was taken and then in my ignorance I dumped them all like a bad date. This time, Andrea had entrusted me with a huge sack of lovingly harvested largess and it felt callous to do the same again.

At the party, these had been braised with kale and were delicious. The possibility of turning them into a pesto was also suggested. I don’t always do what I am told, but this bag of green ‘string’ was suddenly feeling like a relationship worth pursuing. Time to step up to the plate and be a responsible adult. Where McGee and Larousse left me hanging, Epicurious came to the rescue. Here’s a simple recipe using the pesto idea for Spaghetti with Ramps that was delicious. The addition of some shrimp made my relationship with these mild garlicky/onion flavored greens almost grounds for a commitment.

I’m glad you had a birthday Andrea. The party bag was unforgettable.

Whoa! Not those sorts of Peaches!

Just looked at my favorite two sources for information. First, I checked in with food writer Harold McGee. His book, On Food and Cooking, is about the geekiest (and most fascinating) food reference around. Harold writes that Peaches were named after Persia (the name of Iran before 1935) and that when peaches ripen, they do it from along the stem end and the ripening travels along the groove…. interesting but not as groovy as what Wikipedia has to say (which is my next favorite place to get some inspiration). Here things get considerably less ‘geeky’. Wiki's Peach page lists everything from a Canadian musician named ‘Peaches’ to songs, to Peaches and Herb (my tangential groove reference), movies, porn and Pawn Stars!

Maybe we should get back to Harold and all things edible (this is a family blog after all)!

Peaches, Harold goes on to say, have flavor development after harvest. When you get a mealy one (meaning the flesh texture is squishy-nasty) from the supermarket, it’s because the fruit was temporarily stored at too low a temperature in transit.

What does this mean?! Buy peaches now while they are in season, and if you can, get them at the farmer’s market. You want fragrant peaches that are not hard or have a green cast. Also avoid ones that have spots, cracks or bruises. Buy what you can eat soon (not a problem around here)!

Peaches are a terrific source of potassium and iron. Groovy!

Birthday Bash Watermelon

Sylvia just had a birthday. So did Karan, so did Ted. This is the occasion of our Semi- annual Birthday Bash (my father actually started this tradition, so we have to thank him too and say ‘happy birthday Al’!).

A Summer Birthday Bash means salads, grilled things, chilled drinks, cake and watermelon. I really should have a picture of the ‘gang’ on the deck enjoying summer bounty and each other, but a hostess gets busy.

Jim brought this amazing watermelon and I thought that you would like to know how to choose a good one (it’s obvious that Jim did, because this one was delicious… evidenced by my lack of restraint!).

Look for a watermelon that is heavy for it’s size, has yellow under tones and a nice solid resonance when thumped (Jim is musical so he must have known this). Avoid melons that are cracked or have soft spots. This one has seeds. If you don’t want to mess around with seeds, it is possible to buy a ‘seedless’ watermelon. The Japanese bred ‘seedless’ watermelons in the 1930’s; they are actually melons with seeds so small that you don’t realize that you are eating them. Watermelon is a very rich source of antioxidants, more so than tomatoes! Who knew?!

Eat your melon as soon after purchase as possible. If there should be some leftover, store a cut melon in the fridge with clear wrap on the exposed part.

And just in case you find yourself at a birthday bash eating watermelon with nothing interesting to say (impossible though that may be), you can off handedly remark that watermelons are a distant relative of an ancient African vine and that the Egyptians were eating it 5,000 years ago and the Greeks knew of it in the 4th Century BC (do you think that they had birthday pot-lucks?). Such information is sure to enliven any crowd, or at least get the ball rolling for some bad jokes and more melon!

Happy birthday everyone! What a terrific excuse to gather together and share a meal.

Soba Enlightenment: Be Lucky!

Be careful what you wish for! Mamie finally got back to me and with more information than a novice soba eater can digest. After a few e-mail exchanges, I distilled the wealth of enlightenment down to a practical amount of information that will help to put you on the road to ‘all things soba’. Like any kitchen knowledge (or knowledge in general), it’s nice to build things up by degrees. When you are ready to make soba noodles from scratch, let me know. Mamie gave me the skinny (recipe) and I’ll be glad to share it with you when you’re inhabited by your inner culinary samurai. In the mean time, here’s some useful (and some fun) information.

Mamie tells me that Soba and Japanese culture cannot be separated. Soba is eaten for good luck, eaten on December 31 just before the New Year (also for good luck) and that the long lasting noodle symbolizes good luck (detecting a trend?), long lasting happiness and long life. This is serious stuff!

Soba can be eaten hot or cold. Hot means soup, and we can do that later. When it’s eaten cold, you want dipping sauce. Apparently the recipe I gave you is not Japanese (don’t tell me I didn’t warn you!). Mamie gave me a recipe for Dashi (a broth made with seaweed and dried tuna flakes…which may sound unappealing but is actually delicious) and we can also get to that later. What you need to know now, is that you can buy instant concentrated dashi at a supermarket that carries Japanese supplies. Simply dilute the concentrate with water and serve with some chopped scallions, wasabi (beautiful green Japanese horseradish) and some shredded seaweed (if you are going totally authentic).

Mamie recommends that you buy either dried or frozen soba noodles. Apparently the fresh stuff can be “very good or terrible”(that’s a direct quote). Generally soba is grey-brownish. The green noodles that are in this photo and the previous soba entry are made with green tea.

Click here for Mamie’s website, Japanese Cooking Studio. When you visit, check out the links about Japanese dining etiquette, how to hold chopsticks and a few recipes as well.

Thanks Mamie...I’m feeling lucky already!

Strawberries! Hey Sylvia!

Who knew? Blink and they’re all grown-up. Well, almost. The white strawberries still have to ripen, but imagine my surprise when yesterday I went out to check on the ‘Lower Forty’ (as in forty feet) and there they were!

The next phase of this berry drama at The Gowanus Botanical Garden involves beating the birds, squirrels and other varmints to the harvest. I must be a hard case, because although this patch has been producing strawberries for about eight years, I never cease to be amazed and delighted by the discovery of ready to eat fruit that’s as fresh as it can possibly be.

Good things to know? Strawberries are chock full of vitamin C and flavonoids. Flavonoids are considered to fight cancers.

If you don’t have a ‘Lower Forty’ (as in feet or otherwise), try to find a farmer’s market or roadside stand and get them as freshly picked as you can. Look for fully firm, glossy, bright red berries. Check the bottom of the container to make sure that there aren’t any moldy ones hiding from view. Just before serving, wash in cool water (no soaking please).

Now, this is where Sylvia’s culinary expertise comes in. Hey Sylvia! Think you could make us some whipped cream?

Sugar Snaps: Vegetable Candy

What? Have I gone mad? Nope. I’m not talking about eating sugar. What I am talking about are Sugar Snap Peas. Sugar Snaps become available in late spring (and to be honest, I wrote this blog entry a month ago, so great was my anticipation), choose unblemished firm bright fat beautiful amazingly green pods.

You can blanch them (and we’ve talked about that… see ‘Snack for a Samurai’… if you do blanch, make it a quick one) or you can wash them and eat them just as they are. If there was ever a vegetable that yearned for a makeover as candy, this would be it. Sugar Snaps are seriously sweet, crunchy and delicious.

Not content to leave well enough alone? Here’s a recipe for Sugar Snap Peas with Mint Leaves that I came across (don't tell anyone) in a Martha Stewart book.

Lightly blanch 1 pound of peas, drain and chill in a bowl of ice water. Drain again. In a large bowl, toss with 1/2 cup of fresh mint leaves and 2 Tablespoons of the dressing recipe that follows. Fresh, seasonal and holding a promise that summer is just around the corner, this salad (that will serve 4) is also a ‘snap’ to make!

Combine in a medium bowl:

1/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
a dash of kosher salt and a few grinds of pepper

Whisk in:

2 Tablespoons of olive oil
2 Tablespoons of canola oil

This vinaigrette will keep (tightly covered) for about 2 days in the fridge.

Enjoy!

Soba Now, Mamie Later

What do I know about Soba? Not a whole lot, but after I speak to Mamie, I'll be back with more information. Mamie is from Japan and expert in all things Soba. She is sure to deliver some Soba Enlightenment soon.

Why can’t I wait to speak with Mamie? Because when Sylvia was home last week, we made a very quick and delicious lunch of soba noodles with dipping sauce. The weather is warming up and this seems like excellent information to have under any apron belt.

Start by making the dipping sauce. The flavors can get acquainted with one another while you cook the noodles.

I’m sure there are a million variations (and this is a good place to get creative on your own), but here’s what Sylvia and I made (from Epicurious) and it was a hit.

In a bowl combine:

• 8 Tablespoons of Light Soy Sauce
• 1 1/2 teaspoons of Toasted Sesame Oil
• 2 Tablespoons of water
• 1/3 cup of chopped scallions (long skinny green onions- cut off and discard the rooty end and a bit of the top first)
• 4 Tablespoons of pickled ginger, drained

Now for the noodles. Cooking soba is practically identical to cooking pasta. You can review Pasta For Beginners if you're feeling rusty. The biggest difference between what we did last December and what we are doing now is that these noodles will be eaten cold. You should probably skip the extra salt in the water as well (that is unless Mamie says otherwise. I’ll get back to you on this one. In the meantime, there will be plenty of salty-ness in the dipping sauce).

Cook the soba according to the directions on the packet. This means in boiling water for about 6 minutes. Have a large bowl of ice water waiting. When the soba is done ( test a strand to see if it still has a little bite and is not mushy and over cooked) drain, and immediately put the cooked soba into the bowl of waiting ice water. Let it cool completely and drain again (remember your colander?).

Lunch (or snack) time! Here’s a nice little demonstration on YouTube . Basically, your expertly cooked cold noodles (I have every confidence in you) visit the sauce as they travel from plate to dipping sauce to a very happy mouth.