Saturday, March 27, 2010

Sparrow Grass and What the Romans Knew


Asparagus at the farmer's market is a sure sign of spring (it's nice to have a reliable indicator...the weather is behaving oddly these days). Full of fiber and antioxidants, low in sodium and cholesterol, asparagus possesses a list of vitamins as long its history. Asparagus is mentioned in the oldest surviving cookbook (which is Roman and dates back to the third century) and fell out of favor in the middle ages to return in the 17th century and gain popularity and the name 'sparrow's grass'. But you don't need to know that. It's delicious. Anything else is pure bonus.

PLUS... It's literally a 'snap' to prepare. Choose firm unwrinkled stalks (they can be thin, fat, purple, white or the usual green) with intact spear tops. After washing them in cold water hold a single spear from both sides of the stalk and gently snap off the base. It will naturally break off where the woody part finishes and the tender part begins (you can discard the woody part). Now you can steam, poach, broil or grill. Sparrow grass is great hot, cold or at room temperature.

Try poaching for starters (it’s the easiest way with the least amount of clean-up). Simply put an inch or so of water in a large fry or sauté pan and when the water boils add a little salt and the prepared spears. When they are barely tender (don't over cook! We are talking just a couple of minutes at the most-test with a sharp little knife) remove, drain and serve with a little melted butter, salt and pepper. The Romans were on to something!

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