Sparrow Grass and What the Romans Knew

Asparagus at the farmer's market is a sure sign of spring (it's nice to have a reliable indicator...the weather is behaving oddly these days). Full of fiber and antioxidants, low in sodium and cholesterol, asparagus possesses a list of vitamins as long its history. Asparagus is mentioned in the oldest surviving cookbook (which is Roman and dates back to the third century) and fell out of favor in the middle ages to return in the 17th century and gain popularity and the name 'sparrow's grass'. But you don't need to know that. It's delicious. Anything else is pure bonus.

PLUS... It's literally a 'snap' to prepare. Choose firm unwrinkled stalks (they can be thin, fat, purple, white or the usual green) with intact spear tops. After washing them in cold water hold a single spear from both sides of the stalk and gently snap off the base. It will naturally break off where the woody part finishes and the tender part begins (you can discard the woody part). Now you can steam, poach, broil or grill. Sparrow grass is great hot, cold or at room temperature.

Try poaching for starters (it’s the easiest way with the least amount of clean-up). Simply put an inch or so of water in a large fry or sauté pan and when the water boils add a little salt and the prepared spears. When they are barely tender (don't over cook! We are talking just a couple of minutes at the most-test with a sharp little knife) remove, drain and serve with a little melted butter, salt and pepper. The Romans were on to something!

Thinking of a tattoo? or Why Grains?

Thinking of a tattoo? How about:

Grains Good/ Processed Foods Bad ?

OK, not the trendiest motto (how about another option? ‘My Mother is Beautiful in Everyway’). All right, I know it's rather lengthy, but this is very important stuff and worthy of permanent residence somewhere close to your heart. If you are not willing to emblazon ‘Grains Good/ Processed Foods Bad’ in some discreet place, how about really giving this some thought instead?

Unlike refined flour, whole grains are rich in nutritional benefits and fiber. All of which translates into reducing the risk of heart disease, cancer and digestive problems. Not stressing your system with processed food (especially refined corn products) will help to protect you from chronic diseases such as diabetes and high blood pressure.

There’s no time like the present to start the shift towards foods that are healthy and full of benefit. No one is suggesting that you give up white flour and sugar overnight… but once you start on the path of whole foods (and eating only those things you can pronounce), I will personally guarantee that you will feel better and possibly drop those pesky extra pounds without feeling hungry or slighted in any way.

FYI, here’s a link to the USDA site that really spells it out:

http://www.mypyramid.gov/pyramid/grains_why.html

You Must Believe In Spring (Greens)

Sylvia came home the other week and I’m wrapping my head around the fact that she really doesn’t want to cook. You know what? That’s OK. Once you know your demons, it’s a lot easier to take them to task. And what (you might very well ask) has this to do with Salad Greens? Instant food. That’s what. Along with an insulated bag of fairly healthy microwavable meals, Sylvia’s bag contained a box of this stuff and a bottle of salad dressing. Sylvia?! It doesn’t get much easier than this!

So, now that I have unburdened myself with that part of the story, I thought that you might like to know something about boxed greens (apart from the fact that in order to be a healthy-greens-eating member of the community, all you need is a box of this ready-to-go greenery and maybe some salad dressing).

Michael Pollan reports in his book, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, that these organic baby spring greens are grown not all mixed up like in the bag (or box), but in raised flats containing one sort, thickly planted and leveled by a laser beam. When they get to the required height, the harvester can more easily cut the leaves and hence the uniformity expressed in the box. Strips of sweet alyssum (a very pretty little flower) help to attract pests. Once the leaves are harvested, all the sorting, mixing, washing, drying and packaging as well as transport happens at a steady 36 degrees.

There is so much more to this box of greens than meets the eye. I’ll write more later, but this will get your full appreciation jump-started for the miracle of instant salad and a simple box of green.

Something New: Ugli Edition

With a face that only a mother could love, let me introduce you to (and I’m not kidding) the Ugli Fruit. Actually, this is my introduction too. An early trip to the Food Coop (an activity not for the faint of heart given how crowded it can get on a Sunday) got me thinking of the blog and how last time I wrote I encouraged you to learn something new. So, I plucked up my courage and the most unusual thing I could find. Here’s what I’ve learned so far…

For starters, this cross between a grapefruit, orange and tangerine, is also known as a Jamaican Tangelo. A little more reading on Wikipedia informed me that this particular fruit is not yet ready to eat. In the Coop I had picked the bright green fruit that had fewer blemishes than it’s companions and seemed firmer. Well, if I had been this fruits’ mother, I would have known to pick one of the orange colored fruits, which is what an Ugli Fruit looks like when it’s ripe. I’ll photograph this again when it’s ready to eat and we can all have our Ugli Edition 'learn-something-new-everyday' moment together.

Not Always a Dangerous Thing!

Life is busy! Getting to the blog requires time and there hasn’t been a whole lot of that going around. Cathy, the Pastry Chef Sibling, is back in Brooklyn packing all her belongings (and considerable baking supplies) for the move to Wales. We are a little disheveled around here to say the least.

BUT… people have to eat and a meal is a good way for Cathy to have time with friends before her departure. So what to serve? I quickly grabbed the most recent copy of Bon Appetite and choose a recipe from the ‘quick and easy’ section (I think that’s what it’s called). Dinner was a success. Grilled asparagus, shallots and chicken cutlets with quinoa on the side. What’s quinoa? There’s a future blog entry for certain about this grain, but right now, I’m thinking about sources.

For last night’s meal the original idea came from a magazine. Gourmet may not be around anymore, but if you cruise the magazine section at your local bookstore, there may be something there that appeals to you. Magazines deal with seasonal suggestions and often have sections about technique… usually with an illustration to help. Then there is always the companion website as well.

Last night, I knew that I wanted to add quinoa to the menu, but as I haven’t cooked it all that often (and truth be told, I like to use a recipe for most things), I needed to get some help. Doing a search on www.epicurious.com/ (a recipe site) got me started and then I cross-referenced it in one of my basic books, How To Cook Everything, by Mark Bittman. By looking at a couple of sources, the principles about how to cook this particular grain were easier to grasp.

I know that cook books can be daunting, which is why I started this blog to begin with, but I suspect that some of you (are you listening Gerald?) may be ready to expand your culinary horizons. Don’t be afraid of a little more information, it’s not always a dangerous thing!

Separation Anxiety: Eggs

A separation of any sort can be stressful, advice of any flavor can seem patronizing and unsympathetic. Not so with eggs. They are the notable exception to this quandry. Here are a few safeguards that will ease your anxiety and boost your kitchen confidence (confidence always being an attractive trait!).

For starters, why do you need a separation? Today I am making a caramel custard that requires 6 whole eggs plus 5 yokes (this is the bowl I used with the combination of separated and non separated eggs). You may want to make an egg-white omelet or meringues. Each of these require a civilized parting of the ways. As in most tasks, your own method will present itself with time and experience. Illustrated in this picture are a few elements that will help you get started and insure a happy outcome.

• An egg separator: There are a number of them out in the world. The non-gadget way of using the shell works too… but a gadget helps. An egg separator has a little cup for the yoke and an exit for the white.

• A prep bowl: This is key. If you goof up (your egg gets so stressed out by the process that the yoke breaks and spills into the white), you are only one egg down.

• A large bowl: For the eggs that made a successful transition.

• A freezer ready container: No need to waste anything egg. Eggs freeze just fine. Make sure you label the container with the date and amount. These extra whites will make meringues later.

There goes the timer... excuse me while I check the custard!

What is It?: The Sophisticated Shallot

Last night I dined with my neighbors, Sue and Antonio. As often happens over good food and company, the conversation was about…well… food! And why not? It’s something that we all have in common and something we all have opinions about - two essentials for lively discourse. I can’t remember how today’s mystery vegetable came up, but Antonio mentioned that knowing what it was, was a sign of culinary sophistication. AND as it happens, I had just taken this vegetable portrait thinking that there was no excuse for New Kitchen Primer readers to be caught off guard and unknowledgeable.

So, here it is. This is a shallot. Related to the ordinary onion but not ordinary at all. A shallot grows in clusters, has a finer texture and is milder and sweeter than an ordinary onion. Wonderful cooked (in South East Asian cuisines it’s often fried until brown and crispy), shallots are also great pickled or raw.

Next time you make a salad dressing, put some chopped shallots in the vinegar while you are getting out the greens. A little extra time marinating (and we are just talking about a few minutes), will make for an even ‘sweeter’ result. Add some Dijon and you will be culinary sophistication itself!

Vinaigrette with Dijon and Shallots

Wisk together or shake in a tightly covered jar the following:

• One Tablespoon (or more to taste) of minced shallot
• 2 Tablespoons of white wine vinegar (or red)
• One teaspoon (or more more to taste…you get the idea) of Dijon mustard
• 1/4 cup of olive oil…. Extra Virgin if you have it
• Salt and Pepper (yup! you guessed it) to taste

Unusual Fruit: Kiwi as Metaphor

This beautiful and strange creature has become common to our supermarkets, but only since the 1980’s after undergoing a name change and some pretty heavy marketing… who says that fruits don’t need publicity managers?

Originally from China and having a host of names (Macaque Peach, Vine Pear and Unusual Fruit amongst them), they are mostly grown in Italy and New Zealand. Kiwis grow on vines (not unlike grapes) and have funny hairy skins and as many as 1,500 tiny little seeds inside. The bright green fruit is packed with loads of vitamins and vitamin C in abundance. There’s also plenty of potassium, fiber and an agent that works like aspirin therapy. The natural blood thinners in Kiwi help to reduce clots and lower the fat in blood that can cause blockages.

You will sometimes see Kiwi cooked in tarts, but to take full advantage of the delicate flavor and health advantages, it’s best raw (and easiest… nothing like a little instant gratification). But here’s the tricky part. Ripe or not, the outside of a Kiwi looks the same. The best way to judge when your Unusual Fruit is ready to eat is to give it a little squeeze. If it’s hard, leave it out at room temperature. The flesh will soften and you might even notice a lovely fruity smell. Soft? It’s ready. Wash thoroughly and eat the whole thing (more vitamin C and antioxidants this way) or (if you want to avoid the hairy skin), cut it in half and eat with a spoon or peel and slice. Once you’ve braved the unusual it won’t be very unusual at all (your food-as-metaphor moment for the day)!

How Crud-ité!: Simple Yogurt Dip

Didn’t mean to leave you hanging in dip suspense. Here’s a simple recipe for a Yogurt Dip that will turn all your bite sized raw vegetables into Crudités (from the Latin word ‘crudus’ which means raw). Great party food for any night!

In a bowl, combine:

1 cup of plain yogurt (unsweetened, unflavored and preferably without gelatin or pectin)
1 garlic clove either minced or put through a garlic press
a dash of lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste

If you are feeling ambitious add chopped onion, parsley and or chili powder… experiment! Refrigerate if you are not using it right away. Best the same day.

Note: Don’t forget to wash your veg in cold water before preparing. Vegetables very at home with dip are carrots, celery, bell pepper strips, broccoli, asparagus and our current star, cauliflower.

Oscar Contender: Romanesco Broccoli

Right out of Avatar, this beautiful, elegant vegetable (also known as Green Cauliflower) would not be out of place on the planet Pandora. And why not? Vegetables can be stars too! What could be more stunningly 3-D than this fluorescent green vegetable demonstration of a fractal (keeping company with snowflakes, crystals, lightning bolts and even galaxy formation)?

As a contender for ‘Best Supporting Vegetable’ this cauliflower is possessed of a fantastic amount of vitamin C, a variety of B vitamins and even some iron and fiber. More tender than the usual earthly varieties, this cauliflower has a ‘nutty’ flavor and is best served as a crudité with other raw vegetables. Good Oscar company! Pass the envelope and the dip!

Tundra Toast: Survival Food

Ok, so now you know about UHT, what’s another way to have edible stuff that is always available no matter how pre-occupied, lazy, jetlagged or (your excuse here) you may be? The freezer!!! As in ‘duh’.

To be honest? I don’t go through a loaf of bread in time for it to stay fresh. Ditto for hamburger buns and onion naan (a Middle Eastern flat bread that is one of my favorites). By freezing a selection of breads, and simply thawing out what you want (the toaster or toaster oven will do this in a snap) you will always have variety and something edible to give you the strength necessary for a trip to the store. Which is where I am headed. I promise an entry with something fresh next time! That is after I thaw out a piece of naan and some soup and finalize the grocery list.

UHT Saves the Day

As Cathy is dealing with party leftovers and my mother is buried somewhere under an avalanche of congratulatory cards (it’s not every day that one turns 90), I am back home in Brooklyn, jetlagged and hungry and not yet ready to venture to the Coop. Eating is going to take a bit of figuring out.

The yogurt left in the fridge looks suspect and the milk no better. But… aha! There’s a box of UHT (Ultra-high Temperature) milk in the cupboard and just enough granola to make for a hearty breakfast.

I thought you might like to know about UHT. It’s not all that popular in ‘The States’ (meaning here), and Britain is not as crazy about the stuff as France (where over 95% of milk consumed is UHT- yet another example of the famous cultural divide), but you still see more of this milk in the UK than here. Europe has long been a fan of boxed milk. By heating fresh milk at a very high temperature for a very short time and preventing the development of harmful spores, UHT does not need to be refrigerated until it’s opened (an unopened box of UHT milk can last for months at room temperature- once opened it should be consumed in about 5 days). Transportation and storage can take place without refrigeration and as a result, carbon emissions are significantly reduced before this box makes it to your home. Greener milk!

As demonstrated this morning, boxed milk is a very handy item to have around. It’s more expensive than regular milk, but as my mother would say (from underneath her pile of cards), ‘great in a pinch’.